A working Muslim island in the middle of the most famous bay in Thailand.
Find a room before you go.
Koh Yao Noi sits in the middle of Phang Nga Bay with Phuket on one side and Krabi on the other, and it has stayed itself: a mostly Muslim island of rubber plantations, rice fields and fishing, where the beaches are modest and the views are extraordinary. Every eastern bay looks out at limestone towers standing in flat water.

It is not the island for sunbathing — the east coast has big tides and shallow water. It is the island for cycling past rice fields in the morning, kayaking between karsts in the afternoon, and eating in a village where nobody is performing for tourists.
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Speedboats leave from Bang Rong pier on Phuket's east coast, about forty-five minutes, and from Ao Thalane and Tha Len near Krabi in about half an hour. Longtail boats do the same trips more slowly and more cheaply.
From the Gulf coast, cross to Krabi or Phuket first — bus or train to Surat Thani, then a minivan — and take an afternoon boat.
There is no bridge and no car ferry for tourists; you arrive on foot with your bag and take a sidecar taxi from the pier.

The east coast has the views and most of the places to stay, from simple bungalows to a couple of serious resorts. Pick a place with a pool if you are travelling outside the high tide window, and remember that dinner usually means a short ride to the village.