May splits Thailand in two: the Andaman coast turns wet while the Gulf coast keeps its sunshine. Pick the right side and May is a lovely, quiet month.
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May is the turning point of the Thai year. The south-west monsoon arrives over the Andaman Sea, and Phuket, Krabi and Koh Lanta begin their long wet season. But Thailand has two coasts on two different monsoon clocks, and the Gulf side — Ban Krut, Hua Hin, Chumphon, Koh Samui, Koh Tao — stays largely dry until the autumn.
That's the simple rule worth remembering for the whole European summer: from May onward, choose the Gulf. It's still hot — May sits at the end of Thailand's hottest stretch — but the crowds have gone, prices dip, and the first mangosteens and rambutans of the fruit season appear on roadside stalls.
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Gulf coast: mostly dry and hot, with the odd dramatic evening thunderstorm that clears as quickly as it arrives. The sea stays calm and swimmable from Hua Hin down through Ban Krut and Chumphon to Samui, Tao and Phangan. Andaman coast: the monsoon settles in — expect regular rain, rougher seas and some boat trips cancelled on the Phuket and Krabi side.
Bangkok and the north are hot and increasingly humid, with afternoon storms building through the month. Chiang Mai greens up nicely, but the city heat in Bangkok can be fierce — plan temples for the morning and pools or air-conditioned museums for the afternoon.

This is the month to head for the quiet Gulf coast. Ban Krut and Chumphon's Thung Wua Laen beach are at their emptiest and greenest; Hua Hin makes an easy first stop from Bangkok; and Koh Samui, Koh Tao and Koh Phangan offer their calmest, clearest water of the year — May is superb for snorkelling and diving around Koh Tao.
Eat your way through the start of fruit season: mangosteen, rambutan and — if you're brave — durian all come into season in May. Roadside stalls along the coast road south of Hua Hin sell them by the kilo for very little money.

Yes, if you pick the right coast. The Andaman side (Phuket, Krabi) starts its rainy season, but the Gulf coast — Ban Krut, Hua Hin, Koh Samui, Koh Tao — stays mostly dry, hot and pleasantly quiet.
On the Andaman coast, yes — the monsoon begins in May. On the Gulf coast rain is limited to occasional short evening thunderstorms, and most days are sunny.
Hot: typically 32–35°C, as May sits at the end of Thailand's hottest stretch. Sea breezes on the Gulf coast take the edge off, and the water is bathwater-warm.
Head for the Gulf side: Hua Hin, Ban Krut and Chumphon on the mainland coast, or Koh Samui, Koh Tao and Koh Phangan for islands. Koh Tao's diving conditions are excellent in May.
More guides for this stretch of the Gulf coast.